Jerry Tyrrell

The multiple rules and regulations governing building and construction in Australia can be as dense as an ancient religious text.

In this article published in Building Connection Magazine, Jerry Tyrrell discusses combining the BCA and Australian Standards. To download the article, please click here.

Jerry is also proposing a campaign to petition the state and federal housing and construction ministers and offices of fair trading.  To join this petition, email Jerry now.

Tyrrells can help you interpret the  BCA or Standards.  If you would like a building consultant to assist you, please contact us.

In Part 1 of his article on maintenance, Jerry Tyrrell talked about maintenance basics, including terminology and where maintenance starts. Now in Part 2 he discusses how best to balance durability, updating of appearance, functional upgrades and the reduction of risk.

Tyrrells can help you with your maintenance issues, so if you want one of our building consultants to assist you, please contact us.

• smoke staining around the fireplace is not a good sign
• downdraft winds may affect chimneys with tops terminated close to or below adjacent roof levels
• overly high chimneys can restrict smoke making it to the top.

Water penetration is the most common “issue” and it is worth knowing about and monitoring the chimney tray, the chimney flashing and chimney pots or caps.

Chimney tray

The tray is built into the brickwork of the chimney at roof level to prevent rainwater running down the inside of the chimney and soaking down (falling damp) through the chimney masonry itself. The tray in many older chimneys is galvanized iron, which corrodes. Corroded trays may allow water to soak below the ceiling level and cause moisture problems inside the house, usually staining, paint blistering and render deterioration on the chimney breast. A chimney must be demolished to replace a corroded tray. It is important to install weepholes in the course of bricks above the tray so collected water is directed outside (over the flashing). Of course, many chimneys are not required these days and are simply demolished, but you should check there are no heritage rules that prevent removal.

Chimney flashing

Flashing is installed at the interfaces between the chimney and roof to prevent surface water penetrating to the interior. Flashings are usually of lead sheet* which deteriorates slowly. The majority of chimneys have flashings that have been patched and sealed over many years. If the time has come to replace the flashing it should be with a lead free flexible flashing or metal. Do not replace the flashing without knowing the condition of the tray. Flashing consists of under flashing, which turns up the chimney masonry a minimum of 100mm and laps over the roof surface approximately 150mm (except on the high side where the back flashing must be supported and run under the roof to form a gutter). Over flashing is then installed.  It is turned into the mortar a minimum of 15mm and is wedged/sealed in the joints. The over flashing is turned down to lap the under flashing by at least 75mm. *Lead is no longer permitted for use on roofs especially if rainwater drains to a storage tank *Lead will cause zincalume to corrode prematurely when used upstream

Chimney pots or caps

Every masonry chimney should be terminated to protect the chimney masonry and prevent bird/rodent/possum entry. Caps or pots should be periodically inspected to make sure they are secure and the apertures not obstructed by debris/nesting materials. Many chimneys are converted for use with combustion or gas heaters by fitting metal flues. The chimney cap should not prevent expansion and contraction of metal flues. Silicone seal any gap between the cap and flue to minimise water entry. This seal should be inspected regularly and resealed when necessary.

Finally

Just as it is difficult to determine whether a chimney ‘draws’ well during a Pre-Purchase Inspection, it is equally difficult to know which chimneys Santa Cause can slide down. We have it on good authority that, if he’s heard the children of the household have been well behaved all year and there is Christmas cake and a drink on the mantle piece, there’s not a chimney built that Santa Clause can’t slide down.

A lot of current home designs tend to incorporate a decorative parapet to some degree into their façade.

What generally makes a parapet styled façade possible is a box gutter.

So what is a box gutter?

A box gutter is typically rectangular in size and concealed from view behind a parapet or other elements, eg high-sided fascia board. The gutter collects rainwater from any roof and wall surface ‘up hill’ from its position and discharges to a drainage system.

The use of box gutters has allowed building designers a much greater range of façade design possibilities and pleasing aesthetics.

Like many things, box gutters can be done right and wrong.

So what happens when a box gutter is not designed or constructed correctly?

Box gutters due to their nature are a concealed item, usually over an habitable room or area and above surface finishes that don’t take kindly to moisture, like that beautiful plasterboard ceiling.

Usually you are first aware that something is amiss when the box gutter fails or leaks, staining and/or damaging surfaces below.

What makes a good box gutter?

The Building Code of Australia (BCA) and Australian Standard 3500.3 (stormwater design) provide minimum design criteria, which generally are based on property location, average rainfall and style of construction.

A very important element to any box gutter is a safety overflow system. I am constantly surprised at the number of box gutters I see which don’t have any additional means to discharge rainwater collected, ie safety overflows.

The risk of water entry within a building due to the blockage of a box gutter during extremely heavy rainfall is increased if any trapped or high volume water has nowhere to escape, apart from a path of least resistance, over the sides of the box gutter and inside the building.

Material selection is also important. Best building practice is to select the most durable and cost effective material.

Although initially a little more expensive than other commonly used materials, stainless steel is, in my opinion, the only choice.

The use of stainless steel removes one of the biggest contributing factors of premature failures in box gutters – corrosion.

Box gutter maintenance

Like all building elements regardless of material selection or position, box gutters will require regular maintenance to minimise risk of water entry

This includes regular inspection and removal of any debris build-up or any items within the gutter and safety overflow, such as leaves, branches, tennis balls/basketballs, birds nests, building debris, etc that could led to a blockage and/or restrict water movement.

Don’t be tempted to fit a leaf guard style product over a box gutter as this can, and usually does, lead to water entry, not generally due to box gutter failure but due to the profile of the roof covering above.

Briefly, when leaf debris builds up where the gutter guard is fixed to roof surfaces it creates a ‘damming’ effect and the ponding water can gain entry over joins in the roof covering.

If gutter guard has to be fitted, special consideration is required in relation to positioning and allowance for the guard during the initial design process

In summary

Box gutters have allowed building designers a greater range of façade design possibilities and when designed and constructed to ‘best building practice’ minimise any additional risk of water entry compared to any other roof covering failure, eg damaged tiles, deteriorated flashings.

Out of sight shouldn’t be out of mind; regular inspection and preventative maintenance like with any other roof surface or element is needed.

During the design process, box gutters are definitely an item where bigger is best.

More help?

If you are designing your “dream home”,  please contact us. Ask Tyrrells Plans & Approvals for help in preparing plans. Tyrrells can provide good design advice and/or assist you with submitting a Development Application.

In an article published recently in Building Connection magazine, Jerry Tyrrell discusses how to handle property maintenance issues.  To download the article, click here.

Tyrrells can help you with your maintenance issues, so if you want one of our building consultants to assist you, please contact us.

For more details about our Pre-purchase services please click here.

Lisa: Today our industry expert is Stephen Ransley, and Stephen is the general manager of Tyrrells Property Inspections. Tyrrells Property Inspections have been in New South Wales for over 30 years and it is actually the largest building consultancy firm in New South Wales. They provide a full range of building advice, including dispute resolution, fire safety in buildings and of course pre-purchase advice and inspections. Stephen is going to help us today with the Top 10 Tips, and how to get the most out of your building and pest report and also, as an owner, how to present your property the best way to have a building and pest inspection. I am really looking forward to what Stephen has to say today.

Stephen: I would like to give you the Top 10 Tips for getting the most out of your pre-purchase inspection.

Firstly, I want to clarify that vendors and sellers or home owners and purchasers have different priorities in the selling process, so I want to offer my tips to homeowners first, followed by my tips to purchasers.

Tips for homeowners

Firstly to homeowners – fix and repair obvious defects in the home, particularly water leaks and lighting, anything that is going to be seen by purchasers when they come through.

My second tip to homeowners is to avoid “band aid” solutions when fixing defects; my mantra is “do it once, and do it properly”.

My third tip for homeowners is to make sub-floors, roof voids, and detached garages or sheds easily accessible for the building consultant to get in. No access to key areas raises more questions than answers.

Top 10 tips for purchasers

So now, my Top 10 Tips for purchasers are:

Firstly, select a reputable building consultant. There is a wide discrepancy in services out there. It is important to ask about details like licences, insurance and experience before you go ahead and pay for a report that you find may not meet  your expectations.

My second tip for purchasers is to meet your consultant on site if possible. Having another look around and getting the consultant’s feedback while physically looking at the problem, can prove invaluable. Good building consultants will be more than happy to talk to you, right after the inspection.

My third top tip is to ensure that you select the right service. Many building consultants, don’t have timber pest qualifications, and won’t offer a combined timber and building inspection as standard.

Tip four is to check the property’s environmental credentials. Most good building inspectors will offer information about building orientation, solar hot water, photovoltaics, insulation, and heating and cooling systems contained within the building.

Tip five is to read the entire report. Don’t just rely on a conversation with your building consultant to form an opinion.

Tip six is that further information can prove invaluable. Remember the inspection is visual only, and there are many reasons why your building inspector may not be able to pick up on a subtle or hidden defect. Ask the vendor to clarify your questions so you understand the story of the property. Get a strata records inspection if it’s a strata property. Get an engineer’s advice, follow up the timber pest-related advice. All this is very important.

Tip seven is to always check with the council about certificates relating to building work on the property. Especially if there has been owner-builder work.

Tip eight is that we think vendors and purchasers want the same thing out of this process; in the main, a vendor wants to sell a property that shows him or her in a good light. A successful sale depends on open, accurate and clear advice, and depends on all parties acting on that information accordingly.

Tip nine, when thinking about building defects, ask yourself:  ”(1) Can I live with it? and (2) Is it reflected in the selling price?”

My final tip is to remind you that there will always be defects found in properties; many are age-related or just poor building work. The building consultant is not there to say how good the house is, he is there to report on the problems found in the property, so keep it in perspective.

Interview with Stephen Ransley on YouTube.

Councils and the Rural Fire Service are trying to improve land use design, construction and maintenance in Bushfire Prone areas to lessen the impact of bushfire on buildings. For NSW property, all development on Bushfire Prone land has to comply with the Building Code of Australia (BCA) 2011. Further changes are planned once the findings from the Victorian Bushfire Royal Commission are fully assessed.

Where do you start?

If you are planning alterations, additions or a new building you need to know if your land is bushfire prone.

Phone your local Council. It may also be listed on the Contract for Sale – Section 149 Certificate eg Blue Mountains City Council have classified all their properties as bushfire prone.

What next?

If your property is considered Bushfire Prone you must submit a Bushfire Assessment Report with your Development Application. The Rural Fire Service have developed a KIT to help you complete simple applications. This Assessment will tell you the bushfire attack level (BAL) your property is exposed to and the relevant type of construction required to reduce the impact of fire on your development. Specific determination is required on:

• vegetation (managed gardens not included)
• the distance to the vegetation
• slope of land (fire will travel faster uphill)
• fire danger index (a figure provided by Council).

And then…

Once the above assessment is complete the type of construction can be determined.

Properties outside 100 m from any bushfire risk need not be further assessed because they fall outside the bushfire provisions of the BCA.

All property within 100 m from a bushfire risk have to be further assessed to determine the extent of any required upgrade. The risk or Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) is based upon the heat produced in a bushfire. The levels are incremental and rise from BAL 0 to BAL >40. The closer you are to a fire risk eg forest, the higher the BAL.

If your land is below BAL 40 there are construction methods available for you to comply with Council and RFS requirements.  For example,  BAL 12.5 refers to buildings being approx 40 m from a bushfire and lists effects as “Standard float glass could fail during the passage of a bush fire. Some timbers can ignite with prolonged exposure and with piloted ignition source (eg embers)”.

Acceptable construction

Some of the acceptable construction solutions for areas below BAL 40 may include:

Into the fire…

There is a special category BAL FZ (Flame Zone) if your property is classified BAL> 40.  BAL > 40 refers to buildings within 15m from a bushfire and lists the effects as “Significant higher likelihood of flame contact. Coupled with the radiant heat and increased ember attack is a significant risk to most structures and building materials.”

Flame contact will threaten the buildings integrity and result in significant risk to residents. BAL > 40 means you cannot use traditional construction methods to comply with the BCA and therefore Council/RFS requirements. You must propose alternative solutions to try and comply with the BCA. Why? The reason is that traditional methods of construction will not give adequate protection in a bushfire scenario. Bushfire consultants can help with alternative solutions which the Council will assess.

Acceptable construction  BAL > 40

Some of the acceptable construction solutions for BAL > 40 may include:

• no exposed timber
• specialised glazing
• radiant heat barriers
• drenching (sprinkler systems).

The RFS may also recommend to Council on any alterations/additions or new building work that improvements are made to an existing building that will result in better protection than existing conditions would provide. These may include:

• Screening of existing windows for ember protection.
• Leafless gutters and valleys.
• Sealing of weepholes and external doors
• Fire rating existing exposed timbers.

Summary

If developing your property:

• contact Council and determine if you are in a Bushfire Prone Land area
• determine Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) and therefore construction requirements
• plan construction or alternative solutions to comply with BCA requirements
• cost the works.

More help?

Contact Tyrrells’ Plans & Approvals for help, prepare drawings and submit a Development Application.

Read the NSW Rural Fire Service Guidelines for Single Dwelling Development Applications.

Several carpenter subterranean termites on wood

Termites (or white ants) usually operate as a colony. Termites live in nests made by worker termites who seek food away from the nest and destroy timber by chewing and hollowing it out into little tunnel-like galleries.

Nests need a constant source of moisture and take many years to develop. The most susceptible buildings are those with ground contact or those above ground buildings where the nest is close to leaking pipes, roofs or gutters.

If you plan a DIY inspection of the building, you need to check every accessible part. A moisture meter may be required to detect excessive moisture in walls or timber which might cause decay.

You need to thoroughly inspect:

1. the interior
2. the roof interior unless there is no roof space
3. roof exterior (fascias and barge boards)
4. exterior, including trees, fences, landscape timbers and outbuildings
5. subfloor, unless it is a slab or inaccessible.

Make some sort of floor plan and take notes as you check. Complete one section before moving on to the next.

You are looking for

• obvious and not so obvious signs of insect or fungal damage
• design or construction flaws that make parts of the dwelling susceptible to infestation
• sagging of any visible structures.

The interior of the building

Carefully look at the surface of all visible timbers and tap or sound the timbers. Damaged timbers will either sound hollow (suspect termites), crush slightly (wood decay or termites) or sound dead (borers). Jump on floors to see if they are springy (if they are, look in the subfloor at this same area).

If you suspect an infestation in any concealed structure or inaccessible area you should consider removing necessary linings, cladding or skirtings, or cut access holes.

Wear a face mask in roof interiors to avoid inhaling dusts and fumes from any old rat or bird baits or other insecticides. Walk midspan of ceiling joists. Avoid contact with any electrical wiring.

The exterior of the building

The subfloor is the most likely place to find timber pest activity. You should wear a respirator, gloves and overalls if you need to crawl in the subfloor area as the soil could be contaminated from previous chemical insecticide treatments which are now considered dangerous and toxic.

Termites closeup

If you are checking the roof exterior wear shoes with rubber soles and never climb on the roof if it is raining or the roof surface is wet. Also check around the slab edge, particularly if this is not exposed, ie is covered with soil, debris plant growth.

You should expect increased timber pest activity in older buildings built without the modern methods of preventing pests. As a rule, the older the building, the closer to the ground, the more inaccessible the subfloor, the greater the use of untreated softwoods and the closer to trees and bushland, the more likely you will find timber pest activity.

If you decide it is too complicated and risky to DIY, and that you need professionals to check the building for white ants and other timber pests, please contact us. All Tyrrells’ building consultants have timber pest qualifications. We can arrange a Timber Pest Inspection for you and give you peace of mind.

If you buy property with the intention to sell it or develop it for later sale, the Tax Office might consider you to be carrying on an enterprise. An enterprise can be a single activity or a series of activities. The GST registration threshold is currently $75,000 (for non-profit entities it is currently $150,000). If you are carrying on an enterprise and your turnover is $75,000 or more you are required to register for GST.

Investors and commercial buyers should always look into the GST implications of any property transaction they propose to enter. Contracts should include either a clause that recognises GST as a component of the contract price (ie GST inclusive), or a clause that requires the purchaser to pay GST in addition to the sale price in the contract (sale price + GST).

If property investors are registered for GST, they can claim an input tax credit for the GST component which should ensure a neutral effect. To claim they will need to produce a tax invoice as proof of purchase. The sting for commercial sellers would be if they failed to include the GST component in the property’s sale price in the sale contract. GST would still need to be remitted to the Tax office ( 1/11th of the total consideration received for the property), but it would have to come out of the seller’s own pocket.

Please consult your tax advisor for more information.

A Property and Timber Pest Report from Tyrrells is comprehensive (several pages), is available within 72 hours of the building inspection and draws your attention to any issues you need to know about before you sign a contract to purchase the property. A building inspection from Tyrrells can take any uncertainty and worry out of the buying process.

All building consultants at Tyrrells are fully qualified with both building and timber pest qualifications. They are good at problem-solving any building issues. You can feel confident when you get a building inspection from Tyrrells that you are getting ‘the best’ consultants with the most up-to-date and practical building information at their finger tips.